Producers split over avian flu concerns

This variant of highly pathogenic avian influenza, called H5N1, has a mortality rate averaging 90–100 percent in chickens, often within 48 hours, according to the CDC. 

Avian flu occurs naturally in wild bird populations, is spread through bodily fluids, and has been infecting birds since at least the 1800s when a case was first recorded. Jaremko-Wright said there is cause for concern, however, because the virus “appears to be gaining speed."

Since the current outbreak began in 2022, over 162 million poultry and wild aquatic birds have been affected, according to the CDC. In the last 30 days, more than 21 million egg-laying hens have been either killed by the virus or culled in response to outbreaks.

In March of last year, the virus jumped to dairy cattle, setting off outbreaks in nearly 1,000 herds in 16 states, according to the USDA. Since then, the virus has been found in animals ranging from cats to dolphins to foxes. It has devastated seal and wild birds populations alike.

Seventy people are known to have been infected in the U.S., most of whom were associated with chicken or dairy farming operations. In Louisiana one individual died after exposure connected to a backyard chicken flock.

“From a virology standpoint, the fact that we're gaining speed in terms of cross-species transmission [and] in terms of the number of birds affected” is concerning, Jaremko-Wright said.

New Mexico has been spared a major outbreak, but has not been untouched. Since 2022, the CDC has recorded cases in three commercial flocks and two backyard flocks, affecting 129,000 birds.

New Mexico veterinary and agriculture officials announced last week they will test milk for an avian flu variant passed among dairy cows, raising concerns humans could contract it.

While the CDC still rates the current public health risk as low, people who live and work in agricultural communities are more vulnerable to the virus as it evolves.

“If I put [concern] on a one-to-10 scale, it's like a three or four,” Jaremko-Wright said.

In Taos County, where backyard flocks and small farms rarely exceed 50 birds, and more often max out at about 20, avian flu has not been reported — and people raising poultry are split on whether or not to be concerned.

Talpa resident Jeff Cochran has kept a flock numbering between 50–75 birds for the past few decades. His flock has never had a problem with disease.

He hasn’t altered his behavior due to the virus, and doesn’t feel much threat of transmission.

His hens live in a fully enclosed run, and he hasn’t seen wild birds flying into the area. He’s never gone into another coop, and doesn’t plan to now. As far as he’s concerned, his hens are still healthy as ever.

“I think it’s a problem with big commercial farms that literally house a million birds, and they’re mixing birds from multiple hatcheries,” he said. “As long as you aren’t mixing other chickens with your chickens, you should be fine.”

A stone’s throw away at El Tros Farm, Carlos Arguello feels differently.

“I am quite concerned because it’s spreading throughout the country, and it’s in New Mexico,” Arguello said.

He said he plans to enclose one of his two runs that is open to keep out pigeons and starlings. He’s avoiding areas with other coops and brushes his shoes between tending his hens. If the situation becomes more serious, he plans to adopt a bleach shoe bath as part of his routine.

"There's no moderate concern to no concern” about avian flu among his fellow poultrymen, Argullo said. “I think the awareness is starting to kick in. I certainly am one who’s talking more about it. ... I don't think here in New Mexico it's been talked about enough."

For backyard producers, precautions are straightforward, Jaremko-Wright said. Washing hands and tools, changing shoes and clothes, feeding and gathering eggs from outside the coop, and controlling access points for rodents and wild birds are all simple yet impactful measures to take — and good strategies in general, he said.

He advised particularly ardent chicken lovers against hugging or kissing their hens for the time being.

“It's about reducing risk. Don't get rid of all your chickens,” he said. “It's more like just staying vigilant; reporting if something happens. If you lose half your birds suddenly, it's worth picking up the phone. Don't suffer in isolation and wonder what happened. There are resources that are free and available to help. And if that does happen, please wear personal protective equipment. Double-bag everything. Wear the mask, wear the goggles.”

Because infections are self-reported, Jaremko-Wright said the count of 162 million birds impacted is "not accurate. We're under-reporting."

An isolated death of a hen is not cause for concern, he said, but is worth monitoring. Presence of goats, sheep, or even cats and dogs on one’s property can heighten transmission risk. Migratory birds flying through Taos County also increase risk slightly.

Jaremko-Wright is a member of a collaborative group involving state agriculture departments and state veterinarians offices across New Mexico, Colorado and Wyoming that is developing outreach and education resources for backyard poultry and pet owners through a grant from the USDA's National Animal Disease Preparedness and Response Program.

The grant and the extension office haven’t been impacted by spending cuts, but the federal agencies responsible for monitoring the virus have been blunted by the Trump administration’s mass firings and budget cuts, potentially affecting their ability to track and respond to the virus.

And backyard flocks help insulate Taos County against major fluctuations in food systems, like eggs shortages and high prices.

“It’s not costing us any more to produce this egg now than before the shortage," said Ab Yoder of Yoder Family Farms, a 25,000-hen operation in Alamosa, Colorado, that supplies eggs to Taos Food Coop.  "We are just not gouging. We did not raise the price.” 

Cochran recalled a time during the Iraq War when commercial salad mix prices rose due to rising fuel costs. It was cheaper, he said, for people to buy local produce at the farmer’s market.

“We want people to have chickens,” Jaremko-Wright said. “We want a healthy, strong, decentralized food system. Chickens are the best way to do that.”

As for food safety in his own kitchen, muck boots left outside, Jaremko-Wright takes a few preventative measures with his backyard eggs.

“I like a good runny egg,” he said. But for now, he’s scrambling them to be safe.